Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

21

Time Required

                          20 - 40 minutes

Sections

4

  • Screen
  • 13 steps
  • Plastic Midframe
  • 5 steps
  • Google Pixel 3a Battery Disconnect
  • 1 step
  • USB-C Port
  • 2 steps

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Introduction

Follow this guide to remove and replace a damaged USB-C port for the Pixel 3a. The USB-C port is completely modular and simple to replace.

The Pixel 3a’s unreinforced display panel is fragile. If you are reusing the screen, be sure to pay special attention to the warnings in the opening procedure.

The trickiest part of the procedure is re-attaching the proximity sensor connector, which requires some patience and finesse.

What you need

Step 1

              Screen
  • Take note of the two seams on the phone:
  • Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. This is where you should pry.
  • Frame seam: This is where the plastic frame meets the back cover. It is held in place by screws. Do not pry at this seam.
  • Before you begin prying, note the following areas on the screen:
  • Screen flex cable: Do not pry deeper than instructed, or you risk damaging this cable.
  • Adhesive perimeter: Prying beyond the narrow perimeter without angling the pick will damage the display panel.

Take note of the two seams on the phone:

Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. This is where you should pry.

Frame seam: This is where the plastic frame meets the back cover. It is held in place by screws. Do not pry at this seam.

Before you begin prying, note the following areas on the screen:

Screen flex cable: Do not pry deeper than instructed, or you risk damaging this cable.

Adhesive perimeter: Prying beyond the narrow perimeter without angling the pick will damage the display panel.

1024

Step 2

  • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the display for a minute.
  • You can choose to skip this step since the Pixel 3a’s screen adhesive is not very strong. Heating it, however, will decrease the chance of cracking the screen.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the display for a minute.

You can choose to skip this step since the Pixel 3a’s screen adhesive is not very strong. Heating it, however, will decrease the chance of cracking the screen.

Step 3

  • Place a suction cup near the right edge of the screen.
  • Pull on the suction cup with strong steady force.
  • Insert the pick into the gap, no more than 1 mm.

Place a suction cup near the right edge of the screen.

Pull on the suction cup with strong steady force.

Insert the pick into the gap, no more than 1 mm.

Step 4

  • This step shows how to insert the pick without damaging the OLED panel. Do this before you slice either long edges of the phone.
  • With the pick 1 mm in the gap, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.
  • At this angle, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4" (6 mm). The pick should slide in below the OLED panel.
  • Stop if you feel the point of the pick hitting a ridge. The pick may be pressing against the edge of the OLED panel. Angle the pick and try again.

This step shows how to insert the pick without damaging the OLED panel. Do this before you slice either long edges of the phone.

With the pick 1 mm in the gap, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.

At this angle, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4" (6 mm). The pick should slide in below the OLED panel.

Stop if you feel the point of the pick hitting a ridge. The pick may be pressing against the edge of the OLED panel. Angle the pick and try again.

Step 5

  • Slide the pick along the right edge, slicing through the adhesive.
  • Do not insert the pick more than 1/4" (6 mm), or you may damage the screen’s flex cable.
  • Leave a pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Slide the pick along the right edge, slicing through the adhesive.

Do not insert the pick more than 1/4" (6 mm), or you may damage the screen’s flex cable.

Leave a pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 6

  • As you slice around the bottom edge of the phone, do not insert the pick more than 1/4" (6 mm).
  • Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to slice through the adhesive.
  • If the corner feels hard to slice, apply a heated iOpener to the corner for a minute and try again.
  • Continue slicing along the bottom edge of the phone and around the left corner.

As you slice around the bottom edge of the phone, do not insert the pick more than 1/4" (6 mm).

Slide the pick around the bottom right corner to slice through the adhesive.

If the corner feels hard to slice, apply a heated iOpener to the corner for a minute and try again.

Continue slicing along the bottom edge of the phone and around the left corner.

Step 7

  • Slice through the left edge of the phone, making sure to properly angle the pick below the OLED panel and insert it in no more than 1/4" (6 mm).
  • To angle the pick below the OLED panel, insert the point of the pick no more than 1 mm in, angle the pick upwards, and then slowly push the pick in 1/4".

Slice through the left edge of the phone, making sure to properly angle the pick below the OLED panel and insert it in no more than 1/4" (6 mm).

To angle the pick below the OLED panel, insert the point of the pick no more than 1 mm in, angle the pick upwards, and then slowly push the pick in 1/4".

Step 8

  • Slice along the top edge while keeping the pick no more than 5/16" (8 mm) in.

Slice along the top edge while keeping the pick no more than 5/16" (8 mm) in.

Step 9

  • With all of the edges cut, carefully hinge open the right edge of the screen.
  • Do not remove the screen. It is still attached to the phone by a flex cable near the left edge.
  • Use an opening pick to carefully cut through any remaining adhesive.

With all of the edges cut, carefully hinge open the right edge of the screen.

Do not remove the screen. It is still attached to the phone by a flex cable near the left edge.

Use an opening pick to carefully cut through any remaining adhesive.

Step 10

  • With all of the adhesives cut, flip the attached screen glass side down and rest it on top of the phone. The screen flex cable should be loosely arched.

With all of the adhesives cut, flip the attached screen glass side down and rest it on top of the phone. The screen flex cable should be loosely arched.

Step 11

  • Carefully peel the black tape covering the screen connector bracket.
  • If it is in good condition, you can re-use this tape during reassembly. Otherwise, replace it with a piece of electrical tape.
  • Remove the two 4.4 mm long T3 screws securing the screen connector bracket.
  • Remove the screen connector bracket.

Carefully peel the black tape covering the screen connector bracket.

If it is in good condition, you can re-use this tape during reassembly. Otherwise, replace it with a piece of electrical tape.

Remove the two 4.4 mm long T3 screws securing the screen connector bracket.

Remove the screen connector bracket.

Step 12

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.
  • When you disconnect connectors like these, be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.
  • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.

When you disconnect connectors like these, be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 13

  • Remove the screen.
  • Carefully compare your replacement screen with your original part. You may need to transfer additional components (such as the speaker mesh) to the new part.
  • To reinstall the screen:
  • Follow this guide if you are using custom-cut adhesives.
  • If you are using double-sided tape such as Tesa tape, follow this guide.
  • During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

Remove the screen.

Carefully compare your replacement screen with your original part. You may need to transfer additional components (such as the speaker mesh) to the new part.

To reinstall the screen:

Follow this guide if you are using custom-cut adhesives.

If you are using double-sided tape such as Tesa tape, follow this guide.

During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Do not touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.

Step 14

              Plastic Midframe
  • Remove the fourteen T3 screws of the following lengths securing the plastic midframe:
  • Twelve 4.3 mm silver T3 screws
  • Two 4.3 mm black T3 screws
  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Remove the fourteen T3 screws of the following lengths securing the plastic midframe:

Twelve 4.3 mm silver T3 screws

Two 4.3 mm black T3 screws

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 15

  • The midframe is still held in place by plastic clips.
  • Insert an opening pick into frame seam at the bottom of the phone. This seam sits between the plastic midframe and the back cover.
  • Slide the pick along the seam to release the clips holding the plastic midframe.

The midframe is still held in place by plastic clips.

Insert an opening pick into frame seam at the bottom of the phone. This seam sits between the plastic midframe and the back cover.

Slide the pick along the seam to release the clips holding the plastic midframe.

Step 16

  • Slide the opening pick along the left and right edges of the phone to release the midframe clips.
  • Lift the bottom edge of the plastic midframe up but do not remove the midframe. The midframe is still tethered to the phone by the fragile proximity sensor cable at the top edge.
  • To reinstall the plastic midframe, align the midframe to the back cover, and squeeze the perimeter of the phone with your fingers to snap the clips back into position.

Slide the opening pick along the left and right edges of the phone to release the midframe clips.

Lift the bottom edge of the plastic midframe up but do not remove the midframe. The midframe is still tethered to the phone by the fragile proximity sensor cable at the top edge.

To reinstall the plastic midframe, align the midframe to the back cover, and squeeze the perimeter of the phone with your fingers to snap the clips back into position.

Step 17

  • Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the proximity sensor connector from the motherboard.
  • Your proximity sensor connector may have automatically disconnected itself when you lifted the midframe.
  • Remove the plastic midframe.

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the proximity sensor connector from the motherboard.

Your proximity sensor connector may have automatically disconnected itself when you lifted the midframe.

Remove the plastic midframe.

Step 18

  • This step shows how to reconnect the proximity sensor during re-assembly.
  • Align the top edge of the plastic midframe with the phone.
  • Use the point of a spudger to carefully align and push the proximity sensor connector onto the motherboard socket.
  • This takes a bit of patience and finesse. Once you have the connector in place, you can also use a finger to gently press the connector onto the socket.
  • Alternatively, you can remove the proximity sensor from the midframe to reattach it to the motherboard first.
  • Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry the proximity sensor out of its recess on the midframe. The sensor is lightly adhered to the midframe.
  • Remove the sensor from the midframe. Attach the sensor connector onto its motherboard socket.
  • Thread the sensor cable through the midframe and reposition the sensor in the recess. Press down with your finger to adhere the sensor back onto the midframe.

This step shows how to reconnect the proximity sensor during re-assembly.

Align the top edge of the plastic midframe with the phone.

Use the point of a spudger to carefully align and push the proximity sensor connector onto the motherboard socket.

This takes a bit of patience and finesse. Once you have the connector in place, you can also use a finger to gently press the connector onto the socket.

Alternatively, you can remove the proximity sensor from the midframe to reattach it to the motherboard first.

Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry the proximity sensor out of its recess on the midframe. The sensor is lightly adhered to the midframe.

Remove the sensor from the midframe. Attach the sensor connector onto its motherboard socket.

Thread the sensor cable through the midframe and reposition the sensor in the recess. Press down with your finger to adhere the sensor back onto the midframe.

Step 19

              Google Pixel 3a Battery Disconnect
  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its motherboard socket.
  • Bend the battery flex cable slightly so that it will not accidentally make contact with the socket.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its motherboard socket.

Bend the battery flex cable slightly so that it will not accidentally make contact with the socket.

Step 20

              USB-C Port
  • Remove the two 3.3 mm T3 screws securing the USB-C port.

Remove the two 3.3 mm T3 screws securing the USB-C port.

Step 21

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the USB-C port connector from the daughterboard.
  • Remove the USB-C port module.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the USB-C port connector from the daughterboard.

Remove the USB-C port module.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Google Pixel 3a Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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                    Arthur Shi

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Desmond Suarez II - Jun 8, 2020

Reply

There was moister in the tip of my USB C cable when I plugged it into my phone to charge. A warning popped up on my screen to unplug. I did right away and the cord smoked…. My charging port is charged… the rest of the phone seems to work fine. The case did not feel hot afterward. Do you think my battery might be damaged too?

Arthur Shi - Jun 9, 2020

Hi Desmond,

It sounds like moisture may have shorted some contacts at the USB port. That normally shouldn’t damage the battery. It’s possible the charging circuitry may be damaged.

Jake Rosendahl - Jul 26, 2020

Reply

Where is the part for this? I can’t find the USB C port for the 3a!

E. Dunham - May 11, 2021

Reply

Just did this. A few notes:

  • There’s a lot, like a lot, of adhesive up by the front camera. Lacking an iOpener, I used a washcloth soaked in hot water and sealed in a plastic bag to soften the adhesive.

  • My ifixit kit is old and didn’t have a pick, but I used the knife to shave down the corner of an old gift card so it was thinner, and that worked fine. I found it easiest to get the screen off by placing several old gift cards under the edges to keep them from sticking down as I pried at other areas.

  • I got my replacement port from an eBay listing entitled “Charging Port Flex Cable for Google Pixel 3a G020A G020E G020B 5.6” and it works fine.

  • I forgot to buy extra tape for sticking the screen back on, so to keep it from falling off while the tape is in the mail, I’ve applied clear cellophane tape around the outside edges of the screen and back where there are no ports or buttons. It works ok.

  • I found that the T4 bit worked better than the T3 for all of the screws involved in this process.

Leslie Townes - Mar 15, 2022

Reply

Fantastic guide. Really helpful. Yes, tons of adhesive up front and on the bottom. Dealing with adhesive (clearing it out while opening the case, completely removing it while the case is open, and re-applying tesa tape before finishing) is by far the most time consuming part of this process. Overall, it took me 1.5 hrs from start to finish.