Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

19

Time Required

                          40 minutes - 1 hour

Sections

1

  • How To Repair A Baffle On A Patagonia Down Jacket
  • 19 steps

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Introduction

For replacement parts or further assistance, contact Patagonia Customer Service.

What you need

Video Overview

Step 1

              How To Repair A Baffle On A Patagonia Down Jacket
  • Locate the hole in your down jacket. In order to prevent all the feathers from escaping through the hole, you’ll have to replace the entire baffle.

Locate the hole in your down jacket. In order to prevent all the feathers from escaping through the hole, you’ll have to replace the entire baffle.

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Step 2

  • Cut a small oval of Tenacious Tape large enough cover the hole.

Cut a small oval of Tenacious Tape large enough cover the hole.

Step 3

  • Peel the backing off the tape, and apply it to the hole.

Peel the backing off the tape, and apply it to the hole.

Step 4

  • Use a seam ripper to rip the seam at the end of baffle that needs a repair. In this case, the nearest seam is along the sleeve.
  • Rip a large segment of the seam, so that the jacket is comfortable to work with.

Use a seam ripper to rip the seam at the end of baffle that needs a repair. In this case, the nearest seam is along the sleeve.

Rip a large segment of the seam, so that the jacket is comfortable to work with.

Step 5

  • Turn the jacket inside out.
  • Measure the width of the baffle you’re working on. In this case, each baffle looks like it is two inches wide.
  • We are replacing two baffles, so we will need just over four inches of fabric to patch.
  • Measure the length of the baffle (along the baffle seam). In our case, the baffle length is nine inches, and since our repair is in the sleeve, we will double this to eighteen inches for the length of our scrap.

Turn the jacket inside out.

Measure the width of the baffle you’re working on. In this case, each baffle looks like it is two inches wide.

We are replacing two baffles, so we will need just over four inches of fabric to patch.

Measure the length of the baffle (along the baffle seam). In our case, the baffle length is nine inches, and since our repair is in the sleeve, we will double this to eighteen inches for the length of our scrap.

Step 6

  • Get a scrap of matching fabric to patch the baffle. Make sure you have enough fabric to cover the area you measured in the previous step, with an inch or two extra in each direction.
  • We are using a piece of fabric that is slightly lighter than our jacket, so you can easily identify which areas we are working on.
  • Fold one of the long edges of the fabric over so that it is straight.

Get a scrap of matching fabric to patch the baffle. Make sure you have enough fabric to cover the area you measured in the previous step, with an inch or two extra in each direction.

We are using a piece of fabric that is slightly lighter than our jacket, so you can easily identify which areas we are working on.

Fold one of the long edges of the fabric over so that it is straight.

Step 7

  • Iron the fold into place.

Iron the fold into place.

Step 8

  • Align the folded edge of the scrap along the outermost seam on the baffle you want to replace.
  • Be sure the rough, folded-over fabric is between the baffle with the hole and the new scrap of fabric.
  • Align the folded edge of the baffle with the seam, and pin it into place.

Align the folded edge of the scrap along the outermost seam on the baffle you want to replace.

Be sure the rough, folded-over fabric is between the baffle with the hole and the new scrap of fabric.

Align the folded edge of the baffle with the seam, and pin it into place.

Step 9

  • Set the pinned piece into the sewing machine.
  • Be sure to use the smallest needle you can find to patch this baffle. This will keep the new stitch from looking too prominent and help prevent the down from escaping through the new stitching holes.
  • Sew directly over the old baffle seam. You will be sewing very close to the edge of the fold, just catching the fabric.
  • If you’re working on a sleeve, make sure you only have one layer of the sleeve and that you’re not sewing the entire sleeve shut.
  • Go slowly, and guide the folded edge of the fabric directly over the old baffle seam. You may have to realign the folded edge of the fabric as you go—that’s okay.

Set the pinned piece into the sewing machine.

Be sure to use the smallest needle you can find to patch this baffle. This will keep the new stitch from looking too prominent and help prevent the down from escaping through the new stitching holes.

Sew directly over the old baffle seam. You will be sewing very close to the edge of the fold, just catching the fabric.

If you’re working on a sleeve, make sure you only have one layer of the sleeve and that you’re not sewing the entire sleeve shut.

Go slowly, and guide the folded edge of the fabric directly over the old baffle seam. You may have to realign the folded edge of the fabric as you go—that’s okay.

Step 10

  • While you’re sewing, be sure to hold the bias tape (which covered the seam edge) out of the way so that it doesn’t get caught in the seam.
  • Continue to carefully sew the fold into place.
  • The fabric is very slippery, so be careful and take your time. Judge the seam to your liking.
  • When you come to the end of the seam, backstitch to keep your thread in place.

While you’re sewing, be sure to hold the bias tape (which covered the seam edge) out of the way so that it doesn’t get caught in the seam.

Continue to carefully sew the fold into place.

The fabric is very slippery, so be careful and take your time. Judge the seam to your liking.

When you come to the end of the seam, backstitch to keep your thread in place.

Step 11

  • We are working with three baffle seams in total. You’ve already sewn one at the outer edge. Skipping the baffle seam in the middle, pin the second fold into place on the seam at the other outer edge.
  • Sew the second seam as you did the first.

We are working with three baffle seams in total. You’ve already sewn one at the outer edge. Skipping the baffle seam in the middle, pin the second fold into place on the seam at the other outer edge.

Sew the second seam as you did the first.

Step 12

  • Continue sewing.
  • When you are finished, your jacket should look like the second image.

Continue sewing.

When you are finished, your jacket should look like the second image.

Step 13

  • Turn the jacket right-side out again so you can see the original baffle stitching.
  • Be sure to flip the bias tape out of the inside of the seam so it doesn’t get caught as you continue to sew.
  • Align your presser foot on top of the untouched, middle seam (between the two seams you’ve already sewed).

Turn the jacket right-side out again so you can see the original baffle stitching.

Be sure to flip the bias tape out of the inside of the seam so it doesn’t get caught as you continue to sew.

Align your presser foot on top of the untouched, middle seam (between the two seams you’ve already sewed).

Step 14

  • Sew directly over the original middle baffle stitching between the two seams you just made.
  • Be sure to hold the bias tape out of the way.

Sew directly over the original middle baffle stitching between the two seams you just made.

Be sure to hold the bias tape out of the way.

Step 15

  • Trim off the excess fabric.

Trim off the excess fabric.

Step 16

  • For our repair of the sleeve, we need to realign the sleeve seam that we ripped.
  • Pull the bias tape out of the way.
  • Sew the sleeve seam closed, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam.

For our repair of the sleeve, we need to realign the sleeve seam that we ripped.

Pull the bias tape out of the way.

Sew the sleeve seam closed, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam.

Step 17

  • Replace the bias tape over the completed sleeve seam.
  • Adjust it so it sits correctly on both sides of the seam.

Replace the bias tape over the completed sleeve seam.

Adjust it so it sits correctly on both sides of the seam.

Step 18

  • Sew the bias tape back on. Make sure you sew as close to the inside edge of the bias tape as possible.
  • Backstitch at both ends of the seam.

Sew the bias tape back on. Make sure you sew as close to the inside edge of the bias tape as possible.

Backstitch at both ends of the seam.

Step 19

  • Inspect your seams. Make sure that everything is in place, clip your threads, and be very proud of yourself. That was a tough repair.

Inspect your seams. Make sure that everything is in place, clip your threads, and be very proud of yourself. That was a tough repair.

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Author

                                      with 5 other contributors 


                    Brittany McCrigler

Member since: 03/05/2012

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soconnell - Nov 5, 2014

Reply

This looks so complicated and I don’t own a sewing machine.

danilowitz - Dec 15, 2014

Reply

I could never do this myself. Is there any talented seamster or seamstress out there who has done this before and would like to do my repair for a fee?

Can one buy matching fabric from patagonia?

Rachel - Dec 28, 2014

Reply

Yes, this seems overwhelming. Patagonia, please sell simple, iron-on supplies in your colors. This would be a GENIUS move. I just bought a used Down Sweater for a mere $30 and need to repair 2 holes. My plan is to stitch them tight with a needle & thread in a similar color (it’s Viking Blue), but was hoping for a SIMPLE patch solution on here. None exists. Most of us don’t have time for replacing baffles, and aren’t looking for perfection. Matching colors would be awesome. As would a clear patch that will last through a lifetime of washes, and has Patagonia’s seal of approval. I bet you could come out with a line of simple fix-it products. Even if iron-on solutions only last for say, 10 washes or something. Give busy, working moms like me who rely on your outerwear easier solutions so we can continue to buy used and keep up the green circle, so your products continue to see many years of life. :)

Firekeeper - Jan 2, 2023

“DITTO”

I’ve been holding onto a brand new vest, worn a few times. It’s been years. Feeling guilty for the small burn hole from permitted fire control. Yes, lesson learned. Never wear synthetics to a burn again! All it really needs is a matching stretchy patch I could surgically repair from the inside out. I’d even settle for keeping some on hand to do again once it looses its staying power! A couple of “heatproof synthetic sharp pointed tweezers” is all I would need :).

Mary - Jan 13, 2015

Reply

The other option is to send it in to Patagonia’s repair center, it will be free as everything at Patagonia is covered by the Iron Clad Guarantee. They will fix it or replace for free, regardless of when it was bought, how bad of a rip it is, etc.