Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

6

Time Required

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Sections

1

  • How to Repair the Creality3D Ender 7 Z-axis Control
  • 6 steps

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What you need

Step 1

              diagnostic               
  • If the Z-axis is no longer working.
  • disconnect the power cable to the printer and open the bottom and on the mother board switch the cable to Z-step motor with the one to the extruder step-motor.
  • close the bottom and start the printer in setting mode.
  • request the extruder to move forward a little, and if the Z-motor move, you can confirm the Z-motor is working as expected.
  • You can order a new driver online.
  • I choose a DM556, because it is cheaper than the DM542.

If the Z-axis is no longer working.

disconnect the power cable to the printer and open the bottom and on the mother board switch the cable to Z-step motor with the one to the extruder step-motor.

close the bottom and start the printer in setting mode.

request the extruder to move forward a little, and if the Z-motor move, you can confirm the Z-motor is working as expected.

You can order a new driver online.

I choose a DM556, because it is cheaper than the DM542.

1024

Step 2

              Mechanical mounting of the driver               
  • Disconnect the power cable again and open the bottom of the printer
  • There is enough space to place the driver as on the picture.
  • You need to drill two hole in the frame on the back for the two screws to hold the driver.
  • Take you time to mark where you need to drill as it will be visible from the outside later.

Disconnect the power cable again and open the bottom of the printer

There is enough space to place the driver as on the picture.

You need to drill two hole in the frame on the back for the two screws to hold the driver.

Take you time to mark where you need to drill as it will be visible from the outside later.

Step 3

              Connect the power               
  • Connect the power directly to the 12V power supply.
  • Cut the cable to the Z-axis at approx 15cm from the plug of the motherboard.
  • Save the 15cm left!
  • Connect the A-, A+, B- and B+ to the right place.
  • Use as much as possible the X and Y connection as a reference to connect the Z!

Connect the power directly to the 12V power supply.

Cut the cable to the Z-axis at approx 15cm from the plug of the motherboard.

Save the 15cm left!

Connect the A-, A+, B- and B+ to the right place.

Use as much as possible the X and Y connection as a reference to connect the Z!

Step 4

              reconnect the control signals               
  • Use new wires to connect the control signals from the mother board to the external driver.
  • Carry over the way is is connected on X and Y.
  • use later zip-tie to prevent all the cable you add to move and vibrate when the printer will be running.

Use new wires to connect the control signals from the mother board to the external driver.

Carry over the way is is connected on X and Y.

use later zip-tie to prevent all the cable you add to move and vibrate when the printer will be running.

Step 5

              Move the control plug               
  • The whole idea is to bypass the original onboard driver (which is under dimension, I think).
  • You can remove the mounting screws of the motherboard to remove the connector and reuse it on the similar position as X and Y.
  • OR you can simply solder the each wire, one by one.

The whole idea is to bypass the original onboard driver (which is under dimension, I think).

You can remove the mounting screws of the motherboard to remove the connector and reuse it on the similar position as X and Y.

OR you can simply solder the each wire, one by one.

Step 6

              adjusting settings               
  • I selected 2,1A: SW1=off SW2=on SW3=on.
  • I selected 3200pulses/rotation: SW5=on SW6=on SW7=off SW8=on to match the the movement of the printing surface.
  • You can close the bottom of the frame and connect back the power cable to give a try!

I selected 2,1A: SW1=off SW2=on SW3=on.

I selected 3200pulses/rotation: SW5=on SW6=on SW7=off SW8=on to match the the movement of the printing surface.

You can close the bottom of the frame and connect back the power cable to give a try!

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Author

                                      with 1 other contributor 

                    Flavien Driard                     

Member since: 02/11/2021

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