Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

10

Time Required

                          30 - 45 minutes            

Sections

1

  • Front Brake Pads
  • 10 steps

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0

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Front Brake Pads               
  • Place the motorcycle on its center stand to keep the bike upright and stable. If your motorcycle doesn’t have an attached center stand, use a wheel chock or a race stand (front or rear). The kickstand is usable, but will reduce accessibility to the left caliper.
  • Before beginning this fix, make sure the brake rotors and calipers have time to cool if the bike was recently used.

Place the motorcycle on its center stand to keep the bike upright and stable. If your motorcycle doesn’t have an attached center stand, use a wheel chock or a race stand (front or rear). The kickstand is usable, but will reduce accessibility to the left caliper.

Before beginning this fix, make sure the brake rotors and calipers have time to cool if the bike was recently used.

1024

Step 2

  • The caliper is attached to the forks by two 12-mm hex bolts. Remove these bolts with a 12mm wrench.
  • Set these bolts aside for when you re-attach the caliper at the of the guide.

The caliper is attached to the forks by two 12-mm hex bolts. Remove these bolts with a 12mm wrench.

Set these bolts aside for when you re-attach the caliper at the of the guide.

Step 3

  • To remove the brake pads, use your flathead screwdriver to remove the cover for the brake pad retainer pin.
  • After the cover is removed, use the 5mm allen wrench to remove the retainer pin. Do not remove the pin yet, just make sure it is no longer threaded in the caliper.

To remove the brake pads, use your flathead screwdriver to remove the cover for the brake pad retainer pin.

After the cover is removed, use the 5mm allen wrench to remove the retainer pin. Do not remove the pin yet, just make sure it is no longer threaded in the caliper.

Step 4

  • With a 12mm wrench, unthread the nut that attaches the bracket to the caliper.
  • Once the nut is fully unthreaded the bracket will slide and rotate upward, exposing the brake pads.
  • Remove the retainer pin, and the brake pads will fall out.

With a 12mm wrench, unthread the nut that attaches the bracket to the caliper.

Once the nut is fully unthreaded the bracket will slide and rotate upward, exposing the brake pads.

Remove the retainer pin, and the brake pads will fall out.

Step 5

  • Since the caliper is disassembled it is a good idea to clean it. Brake cleaner is a good product, but I prefer to use hot, soapy water instead.
  • Use an old toothbrush to scrub the caliper, focusing on the pistons. Try to remove as much of the brake dust as possible.
  • Brake dust is hazardous to your health. Do not inhale any of the dust particles, and try to sustain minimal skin contact if possible.

Since the caliper is disassembled it is a good idea to clean it. Brake cleaner is a good product, but I prefer to use hot, soapy water instead.

Use an old toothbrush to scrub the caliper, focusing on the pistons. Try to remove as much of the brake dust as possible.

Brake dust is hazardous to your health. Do not inhale any of the dust particles, and try to sustain minimal skin contact if possible.

Step 6

  • Inspect your new brake pads for any damage.
  • If you have anti squeal brake gel, you can apply some to the back (non-friction side) of the brake pads. This is not necessary, but could possibly prevent squeaky brakes in the future.

Inspect your new brake pads for any damage.

If you have anti squeal brake gel, you can apply some to the back (non-friction side) of the brake pads. This is not necessary, but could possibly prevent squeaky brakes in the future.

Step 7

  • In order to allow the brake pads to leave a gap large enough for the rotor during re-installation, the pistons must be pushed back into the caliper.
  • The pistons only need to be pushed in about 5mm. Generally the pistons can be pushed in by hand, but if not, a c-clamp can be used.
  • If a c-clamp is not available, you can put a screwdriver in between the brake pads and carefully pry them apart to force the pistons in.

In order to allow the brake pads to leave a gap large enough for the rotor during re-installation, the pistons must be pushed back into the caliper.

The pistons only need to be pushed in about 5mm. Generally the pistons can be pushed in by hand, but if not, a c-clamp can be used.

If a c-clamp is not available, you can put a screwdriver in between the brake pads and carefully pry them apart to force the pistons in.

Step 8

  • With the bracket extended upwards, hook the end of the brake pad on the retainer clip so the friction pad faces inward, and the hole on the opposite side lines up with the hole for the retainer pin.
  • Rotate the bracket down. This will cause the retainer clip to clamp down on the edge of the pads.
  • Thread the bracket nut back into the bracket.

With the bracket extended upwards, hook the end of the brake pad on the retainer clip so the friction pad faces inward, and the hole on the opposite side lines up with the hole for the retainer pin.

Rotate the bracket down. This will cause the retainer clip to clamp down on the edge of the pads.

Thread the bracket nut back into the bracket.

Step 9

  • If you haven’t cleaned the retainer pin with soap and water, now is a good time. If any corrosion is present on the smooth part of the pin, use steel wool to smooth it out. If you have brake grease available, you can apply a thin coat to the smooth part of the pin.
  • Make sure the pin goes through the holes on the brake pads, and thread the pin into the housing.
  • Tighten down the retainer pin to 11-14 ft-lbs (15-20 N*m) with the torque wrench.

If you haven’t cleaned the retainer pin with soap and water, now is a good time. If any corrosion is present on the smooth part of the pin, use steel wool to smooth it out. If you have brake grease available, you can apply a thin coat to the smooth part of the pin.

Make sure the pin goes through the holes on the brake pads, and thread the pin into the housing.

Tighten down the retainer pin to 11-14 ft-lbs (15-20 N*m) with the torque wrench.

Step 10

  • Place the caliper so that the brake rotor fits in between the pads.
  • Line up the bracket with the mount on the forks, and using the two 12mm bolts you set aside previously, attach the bracket to the mount. Using a torque wrench, torque the bolts to 17-22 ft-lbs (24-30 N*m)
  • If you haven’t done so already, re-attach the retainer pin cap with a flathead screwdriver.
  • Since the VFR 750 has two rotors in the front, repeat these steps on the opposite side to replace the brake pads on the other caliper.
  • Before riding the motorcycle, be sure to pump the front brake until the lever becomes firm. Pressure must be restored to the system before it can be safely used.
  • Once the fix is completed, be sure to follow the proper brake pad bedding instructions to maximize braking performance.

Place the caliper so that the brake rotor fits in between the pads.

Line up the bracket with the mount on the forks, and using the two 12mm bolts you set aside previously, attach the bracket to the mount. Using a torque wrench, torque the bolts to 17-22 ft-lbs (24-30 N*m)

If you haven’t done so already, re-attach the retainer pin cap with a flathead screwdriver.

Since the VFR 750 has two rotors in the front, repeat these steps on the opposite side to replace the brake pads on the other caliper.

Before riding the motorcycle, be sure to pump the front brake until the lever becomes firm. Pressure must be restored to the system before it can be safely used.

Once the fix is completed, be sure to follow the proper brake pad bedding instructions to maximize braking performance.

To replace opposite side brake pads, follow the same procedure.

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                    Zach Ell                     

Member since: 09/29/2015

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Manu Costa - Apr 13, 2017

Reply

Zach Ell: for a latin american, this a priceless professional tool. G. bless your generations forever. Thank so much.